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Written by Darlene
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Different types of gardens require different types of garden tools. Hardware stores typically offer a wide range of tools, but specialty shops offer more exclusive garden tools that shout quality. Wherever you decide to shop, here are a few pointers to help you choose correctly.
Is your garden large or small? A small garden obviously won't require the same type of large garden equipment you would need for a more extensive one. For instance, a riding mower is unnecessary if you only have a small strip of lawn. Who does most of the gardening? Some tools are too heavy for use by just anyone.
When you buy secateurs, also called hand pruners or pruning shears, make sure the blade always stays sharp to avoid damaging the plant. Look for models that have blades that can be sharpened or replaced, as well as models with tension control and sizes that best fit your hands.
Hedge trimmers or shears are handy - but only if you have a hedge, or plan to grow one. Some hedge trimmers have curved blades to stop branches from sliding out when cut.
Forks are used for turning and aerating compost and for breaking up lumps of soil. The cheaper ones may not be strong enough for heavy soil, so check for sturdiness.
A shovel has a scoop blade and is best used to move dirt and garden soil. A spade has a flat blade great for cutting edges, digging and dividing plants. The edge of a spade should be kept sharp for clean and efficient cutting and to cause the least amount of damage to plants. Shovels and spades are a basic garden necessity. You need at least one of each.
While secateurs are for smaller plants like roses, pruning saws are used for pruning trees and larger shrubs. They have a narrow curved blade that fits between stems or branches easily and cuts them as you pull back on the saw.
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Written by Tracy Ballisager
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The ancient Muslim poet, jurist, and theologian, Jalal ad-Din Muhammad Rumi, may not have stumbled madly upon the very first rose back in 13th century Persia but he certainly immortalized it poignantly in his writing.
Roses are believed to have originated in ancient Persia but their cultivation quickly spread across the Northern Hemisphere, first from China to Europe and finally to North America. Rose enthusiasts throughout time and geography have helped to spread the cultivation and the adoration of this arrestingly lovely flowers to the point that, today, there are more than 20,000 varieties available.
Roses run the gamut of the color spectrum. They come in every color, including the elusive blue and black ones that have dogged rose breeders for ages. Every shade of every color is represented, too, with many rose blossoms sporting multiple colors or shades.
These enchanting plants have been bred to grow straight and tall or trail over slopes and fences. Some roses grow close to the ground while others become bushy. Many rosebushes bloom once in the spring or summer, others bloom again in the fall, and others still bloom from early spring until winter.
Diversity aside, a few rose gardening tips might improve your rose-growing success.
Planting is the first step to consider when compiling a list of rose gardening tips. Folklore tells us to plant flowering plants when the moon is in a waxing phase. Indeed all plants that produce their most desirable growth above ground are said to be best planted during the time the moon is growing into its biggest, most visible, phase.
(In turn, plant carrots, potatoes, and other plants where underground action is most desirable when the moon is waning, or becoming less visible.)
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Written by GreenMark
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Are annoying pests, insects, or rodents wreaking havoc on your lawn? If so, here’s some advice that should help you find the best way to get rid of anything that is ruining the natural beauty of your lawn.
As soon as you notice critters or the evidence they leave behind, you have to take action. Every creature, however, has to be handled differently.
Armyworms. Caterpillars that attack in large clusters, these guys eat grass and leave circular patches behind. The armyworm measures about 1 1/2 inches long, and has green, tan, or black stripes on its back. Look out for these insects from spring through late summer.
Luckily, this critter is easy to control naturally through prevention. Keep your lawn well-maintained by feeding and watering it on a regular basis. It’s also a good idea to apply a slow-release ureaformadelhyde to keep caterpillars controlled. In serious cases, you may have to use Diazinon to quickly eradicate the problem.
Billbugs. Black or reddish in color, these insects measure approximately 1/4 to 3/4 inches in length. They use their long snout to chew holes in grass stems. In addition, they deposit eggs in the grass, which means the problem has the potential to grow over time. When the eggs hatch, the large larvae that escape begin to feed and puncture the stems and the crowns of the grass. This causes the grass to die in patches and breaks off individual grass blades at the soil line.
Control the adult beetles before they lay too many eggs by treating them with Diazinon or carbaryl. To rid your lawn of deposited larvae, apply treatment at the beginning of summer so that adult billbugs are not given the chance to develop.
Chinch Bugs. Adults are identified by their black bodies, white wings, and red legs. They start off very small but can grow to 1/8-inch long as adults. Chinch bugs love dry and sunny areas for feeding. They feed throughout their life and leave behind ugly, large yellow or brown patches as they make their way across your lawn.
Like caterpillars, these insects don’t do very well on lawns that have been properly fed. However, if you do have an infestation, you can get rid of these creatures in June and August with Diazinon or carbaryl.
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